Hygral what??? That’s exactly what I thought when I first read about
hygral fatigue. I didn't even know such a thing existed until I read Audrey Davis-Sivasothy’s The Science of Black Hair.
Hygral fatigue is the damage that occurs to the hair fiber from
the repeated process of expansion (when the hair is wet) and contraction (when
the hair dries). Whenever we wet our hair, the hair shaft must expand to accommodate all
the water and goodies from the products we are applying to our hair. Our hair also has to shrink (contract) back to its normal size, but during this process, the hair can split and break. The constant
expansion and contraction of the hair can eventually cause damage to the hair fiber,
weakening the hair cuticle and cortex.
Hygral fatigue is one of the many
causes of hair damage since stress is being added to the hair through the expansion and contraction process. We all know that
applying stress to the hair (pulling and tugging at the hair, combing
and styling the hair every day, etc…) will cause damage and eventually leads to
breakage. It is also so with hygral fatigue. If the hair cuticle is under stress from constantly being expanded and contracted, the cuticle will eventually be exposed, leading to porosity
issues and breakage. Since textured hair
is more susceptible to damage and tends to take in more water during the
washing process than any other hair type, it is especially important to take
measures to prevent this.
Preventing hygral fatigue is ultimately all about maintaining
the inner protein structure of the hair shaft. Here are a couple ways to beat
hygral fatigue:
- Using polar oils as a pre-poo helps prevent damage done to the hair shaft by reducing the extent to which the hair swells. One of the key features of polar oils is its ability to penetrate the hair shaft, which helps to reinforce the hair’s protein structure before cleansing the hair. According to The Science of Black Hair by Audrey Davis-Sivasothy, polar oils protect the hair shaft by binding to the hair’s inner proteins, which in turn reduces the protein’s chemical ability to bind to water molecules. Thus, the expansion of the hair when wet is kept at a minimum, and less damage is done to the hair fiber when it contracts. Since coconut oil is a unique, versatile oil, it is fitting to use for a pre-poo to prevent hygral fatigue because of its ability to bind to the natural protein structure of the hair, helping the hair retain moisture and reinforcing the hair fiber, making it stronger.
- Make sure to do protein treatments regularly to ensure the hair has the proper protein structure. Protein treatments should normally be done every 4-6 weeks or as needed to prevent breakage from protein overload. Remember, it all depends on what YOUR hair needs! However, alternating between moisturizing conditioner and light protein conditioners every other week can help to maintain the hair's proper protein/moisture balance. Some good light protein conditioners are Aubrey Organics Glycogen Protein Balancing Conditioner, Organic Root Stimulator Replenishing Pak. You can also make your own protein conditioners right in your kitchen and add some oils, honey, or glycerin to them so they aren't as harsh on the hair.
Before washing my hair last week, I did a pre-poo with coconut oil and a bit of honey. After washing my hair, I noticed that my hair had a lot less shrinkage. I actually had a bit of hang time! Usually after I wash my hair, it looks like I have a TWA, and this is before I wrap a T-shirt around my head to absorb most of the water! Shrinkage is real! This could be due to the hair not absorbing as much water as it usually would due to the coconut oil pre-poo. I will definitely continue pre-pooing with coconut oil before each wash because I loved the results the first time around, and I want to see what my results will be after using it for a while.
So give it a try ladies!
Try pre-pooing with coconut oil before washing your hair and see how if you notice a difference in the way your hair feels, responds to certain things, etc...
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